In Italy, the aperitivo isn’t just a drink before dinner. It’s a social ritual, a moment suspended between the end of the workday and the start of the evening, when people put the world to rights over a colorful drink and a few bites. In Milan, the historic birthplace of the modern aperitivo, this moment is almost sacred: it’s not rushed or hurried—it’s savored as a breather. At Ma!, a chic Italian hotspot in the 9th arrondissement, the team wanted to bring this ritual to Paris without ever compromising its essence.
The aperitivo as we know it today has its roots in Turin and then Milan in the late 19th century, when the major Italian spirits producers created recipes designed to whet the appetite: bitter liqueurs, citrus fruits, and aromatic herbs. Originally, it was simply a drink served before a meal to stimulate the taste buds. But very quickly, the Milanese tradition added a social dimension: you never drink your aperitivo alone; you share it—standing at the bar or seated at a table—with friends, colleagues, and sometimes complete strangers who, for the duration of a spritz, become your companions for the evening.
This moment follows specific rules—almost unwritten, yet universally observed throughout Northern Italy:
It is this philosophy of convivial Italian cuisine that permeates the entire Ma! experience, where we like to remind our guests that Italian gastronomy is never limited to what’s on the plate—it’s also experienced through the rhythm of the meal.
It’s impossible to talk about aperitivo without mentioning the spritz. Originating in northern Italy, in the Austrian and later Venetian provinces of the 19th century, this cocktail made with sparkling wine, bitter liqueur, and sparkling water has established itself over the decades as THE symbol of the Italian aperitif—so much so that it has now spread far beyond Italy’s borders to become a staple on terraces around the world.
At Ma!, the “Ma Spritz’s!” menu offers the classic drink in all its forms, ensuring there’s something for every taste: from the Classic Spritz with bitter orange and prosecco to the Hugo Spritz with elderflower and Femminello lemon, as well as more original versions like the Limonce Aperitivo Spritz “alla Siciliana,” the Rosa Passion Spritz (passion fruit, mango, and blood orange), or even the French Spritz—a playful nod to the two cultures. Fans of bolder twists will gravitate toward the Marseillais Spritz with pastis, while others will prefer the sweetness of the Amaretto Spritz or the Lambrusco Spritz. Not to mention the non-alcoholic versions of the Spritz and Hugo Spritz, designed so that everyone can enjoy the moment, whatever their craving of the day may be.
Beyond the spritz, Ma Cocktails! offers the great Italian classics: the Negroni, the quintessential Turin cocktail blending gin, red vermouth, and Campari, or its lighter cousin, the Americano. For a more personal touch, the Il Basilico puts a twist on limoncello with vodka, lime, and fresh basil—a house creation that perfectly embodies the desire to shake up the classics without straying from their roots. For those seeking something sweeter and more festive, the Bellini Divina (peach purée, prosecco) and the Rossini Divina (strawberry purée, prosecco) offer the signature fruity touch of Milan’s most elegant bars, while the Piscina, served over ice, charms with its refreshing coolness.
An aperitivo isn’t complete without a few bites to share. At Ma!, the display case featuring salumi (pistachio mortadella, Italian-style cooked ham, bresaola, 16-month-aged Parma ham) and formaggio (Grana Padano, smoked stracciatella, Gorgonzola, pecorino) is the perfect accompaniment to your first drink, in keeping with the Italian tradition of “nibbling” before a meal. For a heartier spread with friends, sharing platters like the Focapizza Ma!rghérita or the Grande Planche Ma!gnifica (cold cuts, cheeses, and antipasti) turn the aperitivo into a true moment of togetherness—an experience you can read about in detail in our article on the best Italian specialties to discover at Ma!.
What sets the aperitivo at Ma! apart is the blend of traditional Italian standards and the unique energy of the Boulevard des Italiens, right in the heart of the 9th arrondissement. Here, you’ll find the essence of the Ma! concept: a welcoming and generous atmosphere where luxury is enjoyed at affordable prices, and where the wine cellar and bar take center stage in the experience, featuring Chianti, Barolo, Prosecco, and signature cocktails.
Arrive early, head to the Cave & Bar, order a spritz of your choice, a few antipasti to share… and let time slip away. Resist the temptation to check the time: that’s exactly the kind of freedom the aperitivo was invented for. And if you’re still unsure about which spritz to choose, ask the staff for advice: everyone has a strong opinion on the matter, just as you’d expect in any good Italian establishment.
What is the difference between an aperitivo and a traditional aperitif?
The French aperitif is usually a brief interlude before sitting down to dinner. The Italian aperitivo, on the other hand, can last an hour or more, accompanied by several small bites, and is a full-fledged part of the evening rather than just a prelude.
Which spritz should you choose if you don’t like bitter flavors?
The Hugo Spritz (elderflower and lemon) or the Rosa Passion Spritz (exotic fruits) are excellent ways to get started, as they’re much milder than the classic bitter orange spritz.
Can you have an aperitivo without alcohol?
Yes: The Ma! menu offers a non-alcoholic Spritz and a non-alcoholic Hugo Spritz—both just as refreshing—so no one has to miss out on the ritual.
